Tuesday, January 20, 2015

Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive!

Supplement 295 Model#-262 - Winter 2014
3/4 Sleeve Dress

Here's my version of dress #262 from the most recent Lutterloh supplement. The looser dropped shoulders with the fitted waist and zipper details drew me to the pattern right away. Clearly I am more hourglass shaped than the model drawing but I'm still pleased with the overall fit. 

Pattern Drafting Hints:
My plan from the start was to lengthen the skirt long enough to meet the top of my boots. The red lines in the photo below show where I cut the pattern pieces to add another 3 inches to the length.
As you can see the cross mark where we are directed to mark for our shorten/lengthen lines occurs outside the pattern. The general rule is to shorten/lengthen your patterns where the lines are most parallel to each other. The length could be added to the bottom of the pattern pieces but that would widen the flare of the skirt. Instead I measured down 2 inches from the top of each skirt piece to make sure the seams still matched up with the darts on the bodice. Once the extra paper was added for the length to each skirt piece then I marked the placement for the pockets.

For a garment with a more fitted hip shape you would need to lengthen or shorten your pattern pieces well below the hip to avoid lowering or distorting the shape of the hip. This particular pattern starts to flare immediately below the waist with plenty of ease so in this case was not a concern for me.

Although the front pockets are a nice design detail I do find them so small that they're nearly useless. If I were to sew this dress again I would probably make the pocket bags much larger and move them to the side seams. 

Fabric Used/Suggested:
I got a screamin' good deal on some ivory micro corduroy and when I saw this pattern I knew it would be perfect once it was dyed. The Dylon brand dye was named Terra Cotta. Although the color turned out nicely I had a heck of a time finding the right color zippers. I ended up using rust colored zippers from Wawak Sewing Supply. 

This pattern could probably be made up in a firm knit like a ponte roma but a thinner knit might not be firm enough to hold the zippers without major interfacing. This pattern might even look nice as a Spring dress in a lighter woven fabric if you were to leave off the longer sleeves.

Design Changes:  
I did add one more inch to the bottom of each skirt piece to get them long enough. Aside from the extra length on the skirt and a little on the sleeves and bodice the only other change was to switch the exposed zippers on the pockets with invisible zippers. I've found the teeth on metal zippers just aren't comfortable on pocket openings.

Closing Hints: 
Despite all the panels and zippers for this pattern it went together remarkably well with everything matching up like it should. I really shouldn't have expected anything less from a Lutterloh pattern. I did sew the side seams last just to leave one last opportunity for a good fit at the waist. 

I like to tackle a more complicated pattern now and again but with this dress out of the way I have a whole pile of knit prints calling to me. I'll work on some quick knit tops for my next projects. I already have one cut out! 

Happy Sewing until next time, 

Ann in Calif. 

Wednesday, January 7, 2015


Choosing an outfit for the holidays is never easy,
 unless you can draw up several and see
which paper pattern inspires you!

Pattern 276#
  Supplement #295 Winter

Materials used:
very stretchy lace patterned black knit with a nap
black lining material
black invisible zipper

No seam allowances taken...stretchy fabric, non knit pattern
 knits as stretchy as this need hand basting,
princess line from the arm scye to the hip, the zipper
and the sleeve all were basted
 It saved the dress!
I basted where the tiny pins are
on the photo

I made the neck facing wider so it would sew into
the arm scye and the princess line.  It should give me
no problem with is being larger, and it will make that neck area more stable

I use scissors designed for cutting knits, they have little ridges to hold
the fabric from slipping.   I love these Scissors!

I am only 5'3" so I removed about 4 inches from the length
I did a large bust adjustment
I found the sleeve to be too large and curved the
sides in to make a more fitted sleeve,
I made the sleeves a tiny bit longer but may remove
that if I don't like them this long

The pocket at my hips gave me pause
my fabric has a very busy design.
I left out the back vent also, it just isn't needed
with such stretchy fabric

I can't seem to keep the neck line from
 flipping open into a V.
I am going to redo the facing
 heavier knit interfacing maybe
to hold the neckline better.

I didn't need the zipper...I should have
guessed with this stretchy fabric!

The dress fits perfectly!

Now on to some clothes for the new year!